For some, the type of blade that your knife has is no more than a bit of style or they like the look of the blade. Others determined the best blade type for their situation and decided to carry it. To be honest, I can’t think of any blade types that would be impossible to use as an EDC knife, but there are definitely ones more suited for the task. 

If you try to list out every possible blade shape is a task I don’t think I could truly complete just due to the sheer fluidity and variety of blades. So I wanted to focus on some of the more common types you may encounter so you’re prepared when looking for your perfect EDC knife. 

Blade Types

Drop-Point

Possibly one of the most popular and versatile blades out there. Drop Point blades feature a classy convex(inward) curve on the back that drops down to the point. This is by design and creates a sturdy blade. That design creates a larger belly which makes it ideal for slicing, chopping, and rougher tasks. You’ll see this style across a range of knives as it’s so reliable. Even one of my favorite everyday carries is the CRKT Hootenanny, a crisp ball-bearing pivot with a frame lock, that fits great in my hand and is elegant enough for the office or formal use. Almost every knife designer has their own play on this style, take Benchmade’s Bugout for example.

Clip Point

Extremely similar to the drop-point, this blade is built almost exactly the same except the curve on the back is concave(outward) instead. This reinforcement of the tip makes this style excel at piercing and detailed cutting. Though it stays just as versatile as the drop point and can still be used for chopping and rougher work. With the similarities of the two blade types, this really is just a preference situation. 

Spear Point

Living true to its name, Spear point blades are exactly what you’d find on the business end of a spear. Symmetrical curves with a cutting edge on both sides of the blade, the spear point acts as a rather general-purpose knife. This symmetrical curve gives a fine point, great for precision tasks like skinning game or filleting fish out in the field. Some, like the Elk Ridge Spire, are made to disassemble and attach to the end of a stick, creating a spear.

Recurve

One of my favorite blade types, currently belongs to one of my favorite knives as well, the Kershaw Blur. Recognizable for its big ‘belly’, this shape is often found on Kukuris and machetes due to its ability to slash. The blade almost resembles a wave and I find it to be great for outdoor tasks, even in the smaller form factor of a folding knife. 

Wharncliffe

Now, this is a recognizable blade, the Wharncliffe features a curved backside leading down to a precisely straight cutting edge, forming the point. This blade is an offshoot of the sheepsfoot blade, originally used for slow, precision cutting work. The shape formed creates an extremely strong blade as well, great for rough tasks. This blade actually originated from royalty, named after the Earl of Wharncliffe. 

Tanto

While the Wharncliffe may live in English royalty, the Tanto was originally designed for Samurai warriors (which is way cooler). The two sides of the blade meet at a sharp angle to create a triangular edge, forming an extremely strong point that excels at stabbing and piercing. Tanto blades have quite a few modifications of them, each one implying their own variations to the point. 

Sheepsfoot

While not used for their originally intended purposes, the sheepsfoot blade now is more commonly seen used for precision and controlled cutting tasks, like cutting linoleum or carpet. The flat, unsharpened tip also makes them great for rescue work since the tip allows them to be cut without worrying about piercing anything underneath. 

Serrations vs Plain

I, myself, sit in the plain blade world. I simply don’t do enough tasks that require serrations. The two types feature some very obvious differences and some not-so-visible ones. Keep in mind that you’re not forced to have just one or the other. Most serrated knives feature a healthy section of the blade that is plain as well. 

Plain

• Easier to sharpen.
• Good for cleaner, precise cuts.
• Ideal for softer cutting materials.

Serrated 

• Harder to sharpen due to the shape that serrations make. 
• Ideal for cutting into tougher, fibrous materials that require the blade to ‘grip and slice’.
• When used on softer materials, it may leave frays and jagged edges.

Steel Types

The true belly of the beast. While the shape of the steel matters quite a bit, its material matters just as much. Some steel types might be harder to sharpen than others and some steels might require more care and maintenance. Ensuring you know your steel and how to care for it is just as important as the shape of the blade itself. Here’s a quick list of some of the most common steel types and some attributes.

Stainless Steel

Pros:

• Resistant to rust and corrosion
• Easy to maintain and does not require frequent sharpening
• Widely available and often more affordable than other types of steel

High Carbon Steel

Pros:

• Hard and durable, making it suitable for heavy use
• Holds a sharp edge for longer than stainless steel
• May develop a unique patina or appearance over time

Tool Steel

Pros:

• Extremely hard and durable, making it suitable for heavy use
• Resistant to chipping and breaking
• Can hold a sharp edge for extended periods of time

Damascus Steel

Pros:

• Unique, intricate patterns and designs
• Strong and durable
• Holds a sharp edge well

VG10 Steel

Pros:

• Hard and durable
• Resistant to rust and corrosion
• Holds a sharp edge well

S30V Steel

Pros:

• Extremely hard and durable
• Holds a sharp edge well
• Resistant to rust and corrosion

Finding the Best Blade for You

After all of that, I’m hoping you are a bit more educated in which blade types, steels and other intricacies of blades. The shape of your blade is going to be extremely tailored to the task at hand. If you’re considering a shape for an everyday carry knife, just think back to your average day and think about your normal situations. If you’re like me, then the blade shape matters less and my tasks are normally domestic off-the-wall cuts. If you work as a carpenter, you may consider something else.